Author Archives: Gary Allen

The transition to a New Year is a time for hope in a rosy future — a future assured by resolutions often made under the influence of alcohol (or subsequent hangover). Not surprisingly, such lofty intentions are generally abandoned by January third. Nonetheless, certain New … Continue reading →

Necessity has often been cited as the maternal parent of invention, and like all clichés, there is enough truth there to give the saying real staying power. Another truth, which has never achieved cliché status — but should — is, “all cooking is chemistry.” … Continue reading →

The Hudson Valley is apple country, and has been since the Dutch settled here in the seventeenth century. The huge seasonal bounty of apples was an important part of the survival strategy before the advent of artificial refrigeration. There was, of course, plenty of natural refrigeration available… Continue reading →

This paper was read to a meeting of the Red Hook Historical Society, Red Hook, New York, 19 May 2013. Society members and local restaurants recreated many of the period dishes mentioned in the paper, making the event a festive occasion of which … Continue reading →

The males of most species are cantankerous beasts, prone to excessive displays and aggressive behavior (think of the garish plumage of peacocks or birds of paradise, and the chest-​​​​thumping of silver-​​​​back gorillas). Human males, still relatively unevolved, are prime examples — and … Continue reading →

There was, long ago, a wonderful Italian store in New Paltz called Toscani’s. It was an aromatic miracle just to walk in the door (and good luck getting in at Christmas and Easter) – dozens of salamis, hot and sweet soppresatas, and cheeses, … Continue reading →

When I was a child, I felt little-​​​​or-​​​​no enthusiasm for cooked vegetables. I regarded them as soft and gray (ironically, an apt description of my adult self). Among the foods I singled out for special loathing was asparagus. Those limp, slimy, and vaguely stringy stalks were … Continue reading →

If you’ve had an herb garden for a while, you’ve probably found that some perennial herbs need to be cut back from time to time. That nice little sage plant you once planted is turning into a largish shrub that threatens to … Continue reading →