Roll Wine & Spirits
Spring's Perfect Match: Riesling
by Timothy Buzinski & Mei Ying So | Artisan Wine Shop

Spring’s Perfect Match: Riesling
Change is afoot. You sense it in the air: the chill, a little less penetrating; the scent, a bit more aromatic; and the sun, brighter and more warming. As we turn to storing our winter coats, so do our cravings turn from cellar-stored vegetables. Luckily, April in the Hudson Valley brings foraged treasures such as fiddlehead ferns and ramps, and local farms start to add young asparagus to their harvest schedule. What to drink with these delicate flavors? In a word, riesling. To those of you with riesling prejudices, listen up. Riesling, by definition, is not sweet. It is arguably the most versatile grape, produced in a wide range of styles, from bone-dry to dessert-sweet. For perfect pairing with spring’s fleeting bounty, we’ll focus on drier-style rieslings.

Why Riesling, Why Now?
The nose: captivating aromatics that can range from green apple to ripe pear, to luscious peach, apricot and blossom notes. The wide array of flavors: from lemony minerality to rich stone-fruits that linger on the palate. Finally, good riesling has an intense acidity that cleanses and refreshes while dancing around the bright, green flavors so prominent this time of year.

Where Do You Find Riesling?
Riesling is indigenous to Germany, where a complex classification system has developed through the centuries. However, riesling is one of the world’s great grapes, in part because it can, like cabernet sauvignon, adapt to many different regions, soils and climates while retaining its essence. That said, riesling loves a cool climate. Historically, that meant looking to Germany, Austria, and France’s Alsace. But vintners have been discovering pockets of cooler climates all over the world. Certainly, New Zealand would come to mind, but how about Australia? Surprisingly, Oz is a great source for dry, age-worthy rieslings that are a touch weightier than their European cousins. As for the U.S., you can find well made rieslings from Washington State, Oregon and even warmer California, but look to the Finger Lakes in our home state for consistent quality, variety and accessibility.

Dry or Sweet?
Varying styles and quality have led to confusion regarding the character of this complex grape. If you’re concerned about the sweetness level in riesling, try shopping at a good store with knowledgeable staff; they will have tasted most of their selections and can tell you about the general character of each wine. Otherwise, you can look at the alcohol percentage: 11 percent or higher will generally yield a dry-style wine, while those at 8-10 percent are a bit sweeter. And if you want German riesling and can’t decipher the wordy labels, try looking for these terms: trocken, halbtrocken or feinherb. The first indicates a bone-dry wine, while the latter two refer to noticeably dry wines with just a touch of sweetness balanced by good acidity.