Roll Restaurants
Global Palate Restaurant | West Park
by M.R. Smith
...The Sicilian opted for something a bit more Italian, and got the vegetarian Crushed Potato, Carmelized Onion & Chevre Cannelloni with Sauce Basques and sauteed broccoli rabe. It’s one happy Sicilian digging in: the sweet red tomato/roasted red pepper Sauce Basques gets raves, we wonder aloud for quite awhile at why we never had broccoli rabe when we were kids.
It’s true, we really need to get out more often.
I get the vote for coolest entree tonight though, with the Grilled Kona Kanpachi (Hawaiian Yellowtail), with sake-miso glaze, on a butternut-shiitake sushi-rice cake. The light buttery fish (I confess, I’ve never had COOKED yellowtail before!) gets a nice tart-sweet push from the sake-miso glaze, plus a light nuttiness from the sesame seeds. The butternut squash has somehow been fashioned into an odd al dente vermicelli, sweet and crunchy with some salty tamari, and the shitake rice cakes provide a solid earthiness. Our server was spot-on with her recommendation of a clean and citrus-y white wine, in this case a 2006 Spanish Albarino Martin Codax Rias Baixas. I’m having a Mahler symphony in my mouth, without all the smelly musicians.
It should be mentioned that the service at Global Palate is peerless. I’m pretty sure the wait staff knows I’m a potentially famous food critic—I mean, consumer—but that’s not affecting the service one iota. Never hovering, they are still attentive and right on time; it’s a pleasure being served by them. No seriously: absolutely top wait staff. You’ll see when you go there yourself.
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